 By train : |
Various rapid, express and sleeper services leave from Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station, taking 12-15 hours depending on the service selected. Sprinter trains are entirely second class air-con, have no sleeper berths, and are the only ones which cannot transport bicycles. Daytime trains are entirely second and third class, with no sleeper berths; the first "overnight" train of the day departs Chiang Mai at 2:50PM and arrives in Bangkok at 5:30AM.
The overnight trains - especially second class sleeper berths - are very popular, safe, comfortable and fun, and good value too - sleeper fares start at 531 baht for an upper berth in a 2nd class fan carriage. 2nd class lower berths are slightly more expensive than, but also slightly wider than, upper berths; air-con is of course about 30% more expensive than non-aircon. Those who wish to avoid sharing the relatively basic second class "bathroom" facilities can book a private first class two-berth cabin (the attendant cleans the first class bathrooms frequently).
In the train (2nd sleeper class at least), you will be offered food (several types of set Thai dinner in the evening, and of Western or Thai breakfast in the morning) and drinks by the train staff - food quality is OK (more like on the street stall than in the restaurant), although the prices are a bit high for what you get, especially for drinks - 40 baht for a glass of Orange juice, around 100 for a beer! Bringing your own food/drinks is not a problem. Breakfast for 100 baht and especially dinner for around 150 are worth trying, however, if you do not want to rely on fast food during your trip.
Tickets can be purchased up to 60 days in advance on any station in Thailand, not only in the point of your departure. Advance booking is advisable year-round, but especially between November and March and around Songkran in April - see SRT timetables and prices. On the larger stations (including Chiang Mai) you can pay for the ticket using your VISA/MasterCard - this is fairly safe, as SRT is a state-owned company.
From February 2009, SRT also opened an e-ticketing website, an excellent option, especially for those willing to book while outside Thailand. However, it is still a bit tricky to register - as they explained by e-mail, you have to avoid any special characters while filling a registration form. After registration, you can book, pay and print your e-ticket online. However, it looks they sell only 1nd and 2rd aircon sleeper class tickets that way. The price is exactly what you'd pay in the ticket office.
SRT advises to buy tickets only in their ticket offices (or via e-booking). In Bangkok, touts may approach you near Hua Lamphong station, trying to deflect you into one of the nearby travel agencies, stating this is a ticket office - just ignore them, the ticket offices proper are inside the main station building. Travel agencies, however, may be worth checking, if you can't pay with a credit card and wish to avoid extra visit to the station - just make sure they charge you the actual price plus reasonable commission, not the silly "tourist" price. The latter is especially probable in the Khao San Road agencies; in Chiang Mai, however, they are often honest, with extra 60 baht or so well worth what you get for this (the songthaew return trip to the station will set you back 40 baht, plus at least 40 minutes).
SRT charges 90 baht to transport a bicycle between Bangkok and Chiang Mai.
Chiang Mai train station is about 3km east of the city centre, across the Ping River and near the main Post Office, at the intersection of Charoen Muang Road and Rat Uthit Road (27 Charoenmuang Road). If you arrive late it would be better to take a songthaew to town (many of these meet every train that arrives). If you do want to walk, exit the station, cross the open square in front and turn left on the first major road you come to (Charoen Muang Road) ; this road goes to the city centre. |
Chiang Mai International Airport 
